WASHINGTON, D.C.—The National Council of Textile Organizations (NCTO), spanning the entire spectrum of U.S. textiles from fiber to finished sewn products, issued a statement today applauding a House Textile Caucus-led letter urging the Department of Homeland Security (DHS) to strengthen customs enforcement and combat widespread fraud that is harming American textile manufacturers.

“Unfortunately, for decades, the American textile industry has suffered greatly from customs fraud and abuse by foreign competitors and organized crime,” the bipartisan group of House lawmakers state in a letter to DHS Secretary Markwayne Mullin. “Our trade policies and tariff structures are only as effective as their enforcement. As you begin your role as Secretary, we urge you to review and ensure the U.S. Customs and Border Protection (CBP) is properly oriented and outfitted to fully enforce our customs laws.”

See the full letter here.

The letter, led by House Textile Caucus Co-Chairs Reps. David Rouzer (R-NC) and Adriano Espaillat (D-NY), was signed by 14 additional House lawmakers. They further call on DHS to “develop and institute a comprehensive textile enforcement program” that includes: revoking trade privileges, publicly listing and instituting stronger penalties for repeat offenders; increased audits, lab testing and verification of free trade agreement claims; and timely publication of enforcement statistics.

NCTO President and CEO Kim Glas, said: “I sincerely thank Congressman Espaillat and Congressman Rouzer for leading these efforts and strongly commend the bipartisan group of lawmakers for taking the lead in calling on Secretary Mullin and his agency to take urgent action to address a wide range of illegal trade practices that are severely impacting the U.S. textile and apparel industry.”

“This letter sends a powerful message that customs fraud, illegal transshipment, and tariff evasion are rampant and must be stopped. These illegal trade practices cost American jobs, undermine legitimate manufacturers, weaken our trade agreements, and deprive the U.S. Treasury of billions of dollars in revenue,” Glas said. “The industry looks forward to working with Congress, DHS, and CBP to strengthen enforcement efforts and ensure a level playing field for American textile manufacturers and workers.”

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NCTO is a Washington, DC-based trade association that represents domestic textile manufacturers.

• U.S. employment in the textile supply chain was 453,122 in 2025.
• The value of shipments for U.S. textiles and apparel was $60.9 billion in 2025.
• U.S. exports of fiber, textiles and apparel were $27 billion in 2025.
• Capital expenditures for textiles and apparel production totaled $5.50 billion in 2024, the last year for which data is available.

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CONTACT:

Kristi Ellis

Vice President, Communications

National Council of Textile Organizations

kellis@ncto.org  |  202.684.3091

WASHINGTON, D.C.—The National Council of Textile Organizations (NCTO), spanning the entire spectrum of U.S. textiles from fiber to finished sewn products, issued a statement today commending the House Armed Services Committee (HASC) for passing the Fiscal Year 2027 National Defense Authorization Act (NDAA), which contains reporting requirements aimed at strengthening the Berry Amendment’s 100 percent Made in America rules.

The House NDAA bill, which authorizes funding levels and provides authorities for the U.S. military, includes several important reporting requirements directing divisions within the Department of Defense (DOD) to strengthen compliance with the Berry Amendment and Buy American requirements for textiles and apparel. The Berry Amendment requires the DOD to purchase 100% U.S.-made textiles and clothing.

In the legislation, the committee directs the DOD to fulfill the following reporting requirements: an assessment of waiver usage under the Berry Amendment, evaluation of supplier verification and auditing practices and actions to align contracting strategies with the long-term health of the domestic defense textile industrial base; an assessment of the feasibility of narrowing the exception for Berry Amendment small purchases from $150,000 to $20,000, broadly and specifically for textiles; an examination of  flame-resistant textile production capacity and resilience; and an examination of potential non-Berry compliant Army service uniforms.

NCTO President and CEO Kim Glas:

“We applaud the HASC for passing the FY 2027 NDAA and including provisions that, if enacted, will lead to increased government purchases of more Made in America textiles and bolster domestic manufacturing and meet the mission-critical needs of our Armed Forces. We appreciate the leadership of Congressman Don Davis (D-NC) and Congressman Pat Harrigan (R-NC), co-chairs of the House Berry Amendment Caucus, who led efforts to strengthen Berry in the House this year.

“These provisions reinforce a simple but vital principle: America’s military should be equipped with American-made products whenever possible. Strong enforcement of the Berry Amendment helps ensure our armed forces have access to reliable, high-quality textile products while sustaining the domestic manufacturing base that supports military readiness and national security.

“The U.S. textile industry supplies approximately $1.8 billion in advanced textile materials and components to our military each year. These reporting requirements send an important signal that Congress recognizes the strategic value of maintaining a strong domestic textile supply chain and is committed to protecting it.

“NCTO looks forward to working with House and Senate lawmakers to ensure these provisions are included in the final FY 2027 NDAA and to advance policies that strengthen the domestic textile industrial base.”

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NCTO is a Washington, DC-based trade association that represents domestic textile manufacturers.

• U.S. employment in the textile supply chain was 453,122 in 2025.
• The value of shipments for U.S. textiles and apparel was $60.9 billion in 2025.
• U.S. exports of fiber, textiles and apparel were $27 billion in 2025.
• Capital expenditures for textiles and apparel production totaled $5.50 billion in 2024, the last year for which data is available.

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CONTACT:

Kristi Ellis

Vice President, Communications

National Council of Textile Organizations

kellis@ncto.org  |  202.684.3091

May 5, 2026

WASHINGTON, DC—The National Council of Textile Organizations (NCTO), representing the full spectrum of U.S. textiles from fiber through finished sewn products, held its officer elections for fiscal year 2026 at its annual meeting April 14-16.

NCTO has elected Amy Bircher Bruyn, CEO and Founder of MMI Textiles as Chair, and Jay Todd, CEO and Managing Partner of Service Thread, as Vice Chair.

In addition to the appointment of a new chair and vice chair, NCTO elected chairs for each of its five councils. NCTO is comprised of five councils to ensure a broad representation of the industry supply chain. Each council has an allotted number of members who are elected to the association’s Board of Directors, in addition to the Executive Committee.

“I am pleased to announce NCTO’s 2026 officers, council chairs, and board and executive committee members,” said NCTO President and CEO Kim Glas. “I thank Chair Amy Bircher Bruyn and Vice Chair Jay Todd for stepping into these critical roles. As we navigate a challenging environment, their leadership will be key as we advance policies to preserve preferential treatment under USMCA and CAFTA-DR, strengthen customs enforcement against import fraud, refine tariff policies with carve-outs for inputs and machinery not made in the U.S., expand the Berry Amendment and America-made procurement, and grow our Western Hemisphere co-production chain—while opposing measures that undermine a domestic supply chain supporting more than 450,000 jobs.”

Elected as NCTO Chair and Vice Chair for 2026:

• Chair – Amy Bircher Bruyn, MMI Textiles

Ms. Bircher Bruyn is CEO and Founder of MMI Textiles, a global industrial and custom textile supplier based in Brooklyn, Ohio.

• Vice Chair – Jay Todd, CEO and Managing Director of Service Thread, an industrial yarn and sewing thread manufacturer based in Laurinburg, N.C.

Elected to the NCTO Board of Directors during the various Council meetings were the following:

• Fiber Council – David Adkins of Lenzing Fibers; Geoffrey Hietpas of The LYCRA Company; and David Poston of Palmetto Synthetics
• Yarn Council – Justin Ferdinand of Kentwool; Chris Alt of American & Efird; Marc Doyon of Gildan; Charles Heilig of Parkdale; Eddie Ingle of Unifi; and Tim Manson of Meridian Specialty Yarn Group
• Fabric and Home Products Council –Allen Jacoby of Milliken & Company; Leib Oehmig of Glen Raven Inc.; Bill Rogers of Mount Vernon Mills; Brian Rosenstein of TSG Finishing; Dan Russian of Sage Automotive Interiors; and Walter Spiegel of Standard Textile
• Finished Textiles and Apparel Products Council – Gabrielle Ferrara of Ferrara (Alternate: Marisa Fumei-South of Two-One-Two New York)
• Industry Support Council – Todd Bassett of Fi-Tech; Greg Duncan of American Truetzschler; and Jim Reed of YKK Corp.

Elected by their respective Councils to serve on the Executive Committee were:

Justin Ferdinand of Kentwool; Tim Manson of Meridian Specialty Yarn Group; Bill Rogers of Mount Vernon Mills; Allen Jacoby of Milliken & Company; David Adkins of Lenzing Fibers; Gabrielle Ferrara of Ferrara; and Todd Basset of Fi-Tech.

NCTO Chair Amy Bircher Bruyn has appointed additional executives to serve on the Executive Committee: Chuck Hall, Barnet and NCTO immediate past chairman; Anderson Warlick, Parkdale Mills; Jay Self, Greenwood Mills; Marisa Fumei-South, Two One Two New York; and Jackie Ferrari, American Fashion Network.

Elected to chair the Councils:

• Fiber Council: David Adkins of Lenzing Fibers
• Yarn Council: Tim Manson of Meridian Specialty Yarn Group
• Fabric and Home Products Council: Allen Jacoby of Milliken & Company
• Finished Textiles and Apparel Products Council: Gabrielle Ferrara of Ferrara
• Industry Support Council: Todd Bassett of Fi-Tech

In addition to the chair and vice chair, NCTO also elected the following officers for the upcoming fiscal year:

• President & CEO – Kim Glas, NCTO
• Treasurer – Robin Haynes, NCTO
• Secretary – Katherine White, NCTO

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NCTO is a Washington, DC-based trade association that represents domestic textile manufacturers.

• U.S. employment in the textile supply chain was 453,122 in 2025.
• The value of shipments for U.S. textiles and apparel was $60.9 billion in 2025.
• U.S. exports of fiber, textiles and apparel were $27 billion in 2025.
• Capital expenditures for textiles and apparel production totaled $5.50 billion in 2024, the last year for which data is available.

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CONTACT:

Kristi Ellis

Vice President, Communications

National Council of Textile Organizations

kellis@ncto.org  |  202.684.3091

State of the U.S. Textile Industry Address

April 16, 2026

WASHINGTON, D.C. –National Council of Textile Organizations (NCTO) Chairman Chuck Hall delivered the trade association’s State of the Industry overview at NCTO’s 22nd Annual Meeting on April 16.

Hall’s speech outlined (I) the U.S. textile industry’s major challenges and policy achievements last year, (2) the strategic importance of the U.S. textile supply chain to the economy and national security, and (3) NCTO’s 2026 policy priorities for domestic textile manufacturers.

“Despite weakening in some fundamentals, I remain cautiously optimistic that the industry will once again navigate the disruptions and remain resilient this year,” Hall said. “Several policy wins and significant progress in key priority areas will generate more business opportunities for the industry and thus provide a basis and foundation for optimism in 2026.

A link to the NCTO chairman’s remarks as prepared for delivery are included here along with a link to a data infographic prepared by NCTO illustrating the current economic status of the U.S. textile industry.

NCTO’s top advocacy priories in 2026 include:

• Preserving duty-free treatment for USMCA and CAFTA-DR qualified textile and apparel goods
• Heightening advocacy aimed at the administration and Congress to secure tariff exemptions for textile manufacturing inputs and machinery not available in the United States
• Intensifying engagement to protect and expand the Berry Amendment through the National Defense Authorization Act and the House Berry Amendment Caucus
• Expanding government procurement of American-made textiles and uniforms across all federal agencies
• Robust engagement with the administration on customs enforcement to combat rampant fraud 

Hall is President and CEO of Barnet, a technical textile manufacturer headquartered in Spartanburg, South Carolina.

NCTO’s annual meeting was held April 14-16 at the Mayflower Hotel in Washington, D.C.

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NCTO is a Washington, DC-based trade association that represents domestic textile manufacturers.

• U.S. employment in the textile supply chain was 453,122 in 2025.
• The value of shipments for U.S. textiles and apparel was $60.9 billion in 2025.
• U.S. exports of fiber, textiles and apparel were $27 billion in 2025.
• Capital expenditures for textiles and apparel production totaled $5.50 billion in 2024, the last year for which data is available.

DOWNLOAD RELEASE

CONTACT:

Kristi Ellis

Vice President, Communications

National Council of Textile Organizations

kellis@ncto.org |  202.281.9305

WASHINGTON, D.C. – The National Council of Textile Organizations (NCTO), which represents the full U.S. textile supply chain from fiber and yarn to fabrics and finished sewn products, lauded President Trump’s signing of a determination that enables the U.S. textile industry and other critical sectors to access Defense Production Act (DPA) Title III investment funding through the Department of War (DoW).

The presidential determination was published in a Federal Register notice here.

National Council of Textile Organizations President and CEO Kim Glas:

“We sincerely thank President Trump for authorizing DPA Title III funding for certain warfighter clothing, textiles, and equipment. This has been a long-fought advocacy effort on the part of the domestic textile industry and our partners in coordination with the White House Made in America Office, DoW and allies on the Hill. This is an important breakthrough and a step forward for the U.S. textile industry, a strategic industry that supports the U.S. military and national security priorities.

“NCTO formally requested a presidential determination last year, urging immediate action to allow the U.S. textile and uniform industry to utilize the DPA Title III program to bolster domestic production capacity, sustain critical supply chains, and meet evolving national defense needs. 

“Under the Berry Amendment, a law requiring the DoW to purchase 100% U.S.-made textiles and clothing, the U.S. textile and apparel industrial base provides more than $1.8 billion in uniforms, body armor, footwear, and individual equipment annually to the U.S. armed forces. This industry supplies over 8,000 textile items and more than 30,000 line-items when sizing is included.

“During the COVID-19 pandemic, DPA authorities were widely used to invest in U.S. manufacturing operations to rapidly scale production of personal protective equipment (PPE), demonstrating the program’s effectiveness in strengthening domestic industrial capacity in times of national need.

“Expanding access to DPA Title III funding for broader defense priorities will help secure a resilient domestic textile supply chain, reduce reliance on foreign and adversarial suppliers, and ensure the United States can equip and protect its servicemembers across all operational environments.

“We appreciate partnering with the Warrior Protection and Readiness Coalition on this effort.  We look forward to working with the DoW and the administration on securing funding allocations to ensure the domestic industry can continue our servicemembers across all operational environments.”

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NCTO is a Washington, DC-based trade association that represents domestic textile manufacturers.

• U.S. employment in the textile supply chain was 471,046 in 2024.
• The value of shipments for U.S. textiles and apparel was $63.9 billion in 2024.
• U.S. exports of fiber, textiles and apparel were $28 billion in 2024.
• Capital expenditures for textiles and apparel production totaled $2.98 billion in 2022, the last year for which data is available.

DOWNLOAD RELEASE

CONTACT:

Kristi Ellis

National Council of Textile Organizations

kellis@ncto.org| P: 202.281.9305

WASHINGTON, D.C. – The National Council of Textile Organizations (NCTO), representing the full spectrum of U.S. textiles from fiber, yarn and fabrics to finished sewn products, applauded the launch of the House Berry Amendment Caucus today.

National Council of Textile Organizations President and CEO Kim Glas

“On behalf of the U.S textile industry, NCTO sincerely thanks Rep. Pat Harrigan (R-NC) and Rep. Don Davis (D-NC) for their leadership in co-chairing the new bipartisan House Berry Amendment Caucus, aimed at strengthening national security and the U.S. defense industrial supply chain through the federal procurement of American-made mission critical clothing, textiles and gear.

“NCTO strongly supports this new caucus to promote and expand the Berry Amendment, a law requiring the Department of War (DOW) to buy textile and clothing products made with virtually 100% U.S. content and labor to support our U.S. warm industrial base. 

“The U.S. textile industry provides $1.8 billion of high-tech and functional components for vital uniforms and equipment for our armed forces each year. The Department of War estimates that over 8,000 different textile items are purchased for use by the U.S. military—and over 30,000 line items when individual sizes are considered.

“It is vital to America’s national security that the U.S. military maintain the ability to source high-quality, innovative textile materials, apparel, and personal equipment from a vibrant U.S. textile industrial base and key to this goal is defending and strengthening the Berry Amendment.

“We look forward to working with the new caucus’s leadership and our industry partners to focus congressional efforts on preserving the Berry Amendment and expanding opportunities for U.S. textile manufacturers, safeguarding domestic supply chains, and ensuring our troops continue to receive innovative, high-quality American-made products.”

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NCTO is a Washington, DC-based trade association that represents domestic textile manufacturers.

• U.S. employment in the textile supply chain was 471,046 in 2024.
• The value of shipments for U.S. textiles and apparel was $63.9 billion in 2024.
• U.S. exports of fiber, textiles and apparel were $28 billion in 2024.
• Capital expenditures for textiles and apparel production totaled $2.98 billion in 2022, the last year for which data is available.

DOWNLOAD RELEASE

CONTACT:

Kristi Ellis

National Council of Textile Organizations

kellis@ncto.org| P: 202.281.9305

WASHINGTON, D.C. – National Council of Textile Organizations (NCTO) President and CEO Kim Glas sent a letter to House leaders urging them to oppose and block the Secure Revenue Clearance Channel Act, a bill that would essentially reopen a dangerous trade loophole and ultimately harm U.S. textile manufacturers.

See the full letter here.

“Last year through bipartisan action, Congress voted overwhelmingly to end de minimis after identifying the substantial harms it perpetrated,” Glas states in the letter to Speaker of the House Mike Johnson (D-LA) and Minority Leader Hakeem Jeffries (D-NY). “The House China Select Committee determined in 2023 that Chinese e-commerce platforms were flooding the U.S. with billions of dollars’ worth of goods but had paid $0 in import duties, while American companies comparatively spent millions. Additionally, these platforms were found lacking in due diligence mechanisms to verify that products were not tainted by forced labor in China.”

Last year, Congress passed bipartisan legislation codifying the end of de minimis, effective July 2027. The Trump administration also took action to close de minimis to all commercial shipments globally through executive order, which took effect at the end of August 2025.

“As a result, the volume of small package deliveries has dramatically decreased, duty collections are up, and American consumers and workers are better off,” the letter states.

“Despite clear action from Congress and the administration on the negative impact of expresss shipment programs for ‘small value’ packages at U.S. ports, some still want to provide duty relief to foreign importers while requiring less information on packages valued at up to $600 — making enforcement impossible and rewarding offshore producers,” the letter continues. “De minimis was labeled ‘China’s backdoor to the U.S.,’ facilitated by an environment where goods were cleared on manifest, packages were not properly inspected or levied duties, and the risk posed was extremely high. The Secure Revenue Clearance Channel Act would recreate many of these same problems, with China being the biggest winner.”

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NCTO is a Washington, DC-based trade association that represents domestic textile manufacturers.

• U.S. employment in the textile supply chain was 471,046 in 2024.
• The value of shipments for U.S. textiles and apparel was $63.9 billion in 2024.
• U.S. exports of fiber, textiles and apparel were $28 billion in 2024.
• Capital expenditures for textiles and apparel production totaled $2.98 billion in 2022, the last year for which data is available.

CONTACT:

Kristi Ellis

National Council of Textile Organizations

kellis@ncto.org| P: 202.281.9305

WASHINGTON, D.C. – The National Council of Textile Organizations (NCTO), which represents the full U.S. textile supply chain from fiber and yarn to fabrics and finished sewn products, welcomed today’s announcement of a reciprocal trade agreement between the United States and Guatemala.

National Council of Textile Organizations President and CEO Kim Glas:

“The reciprocal trade agreement with Guatemala marks an important step toward strengthening the U.S. textile supply chain. We commend the administration for taking decisive action to remove reciprocal tariffs and provide preferential treatment to qualifying textile and apparel products from Guatemala under the Dominican Republic-Central America-United States Free Trade Agreement (CAFTA-DR).

“NCTO and the broader U.S. textile industry are grateful to President Trump, U.S. Trade Representative Ambassador Jamieson Greer, and the administration for concluding this agreement with Guatemala, following on the heels of the recently announced agreement with El Salvador.

“Guatemala is a key partner in the CAFTA-DR region, with nearly $2 billion in two-way textile and apparel trade. Together, the region operates as an integrated co-production platform that is essential to the U.S. textile supply chain. In 2024, this production network generated $11.3 billion in two-way trade and supported more than 470,000 American jobs in the domestic textile industry alone.

“The U.S.–Western Hemisphere textile and apparel supply chain remains a critical strategic alternative to China and other Asian producers. We look forward to continued collaboration with the Trump administration to further solidify this vital regional partnership and appreciate this important announcement.”

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NCTO is a Washington, DC-based trade association that represents domestic textile manufacturers.

• U.S. employment in the textile supply chain was 471,046 in 2024.
• The value of shipments for U.S. textiles and apparel was $63.9 billion in 2024.
• U.S. exports of fiber, textiles and apparel were $28 billion in 2024.
• Capital expenditures for textiles and apparel production totaled $2.98 billion in 2022, the last year for which data is available.

DOWNLOAD RELEASE

CONTACT:

Kristi Ellis

National Council of Textile Organizations

kellis@ncto.org| P: 202.281.9305

January 29, 2026

WASHINGTON, D.C. – The National Council of Textile Organizations (NCTO), representing the full spectrum of U.S. textiles from fiber, yarn and fabrics to finished sewn products, lauded the administration’s reciprocal trade agreement with El Salvador announced today.

National Council of Textile Organizations President and CEO Kim Glas:

“NCTO and our industry greatly appreciate the administration’s actions on qualified textile and apparel goods for El Salvador under the Dominican Republic-Central America-United States Free Trade Agreement (CAFTA-DR). These steps will help fortify a critical export market for the U.S. textile industry and our workforce.

“We sincerely thank President Trump, U.S. Trade Representative Ambassador Jamieson Greer, and the administration for finalizing this important reciprocal trade agreement. El Salvador is part of the CAFTA-DR region that forms a vital co-production chain with the American textile supply chain. This production chain facilitated $11.3 billion in two-way trade in 2024 and supported more than 470,000 U.S. workers in the domestic textile sector alone.   

“Today’s action will reinforce the strength of the U.S. textile industry. The U.S.–Western Hemisphere supply chain is a strategic bulwark against China and other Asian competitors. We welcome the opportunity to work with the Trump administration to further fortify this vital region and strongly appreciate this important announcement.”

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NCTO is a Washington, DC-based trade association that represents domestic textile manufacturers.

• U.S. employment in the textile supply chain was 471,046 in 2024.
• The value of shipments for U.S. textiles and apparel was $63.9 billion in 2024.
• U.S. exports of fiber, textiles and apparel were $28 billion in 2024.
• Capital expenditures for textiles and apparel production totaled $2.98 billion in 2022, the last year for which data is available.

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CONTACT:

Kristi Ellis

National Council of Textile Organizations

kellis@ncto.org| P: 202.281.9305

November 13, 2025

WASHINGTON, D.C. – The National Council of Textile Organizations (NCTO), representing the full spectrum of U.S. textiles from fiber, yarn and fabrics to finished sewn products, applauded the administration’s announced plans for the U.S. textile industry and qualified textile and apparel goods from Guatemala and El Salvador under the Dominican Republic-Central America-United States Free Trade Agreement (CAFTA-DR).

National Council of Textile Organizations President and CEO Kim Glas:

“NCTO and our industry greatly appreciate the administration’s actions on qualified textile and apparel goods for Guatemala and El Salvador—steps that will help bolster the U.S. textile industry’s vital supply chain in the Western Hemisphere.  This is a critical export market for the U.S. textile industry and our workforce.

“We want to thank President Trump, U.S. Trade Representative Ambassador Jamieson Greer, and the administration for this important decision. The CAFTA-DR region forms a vital co-production chain with the American textile supply chain, facilitating $11.3 billion in two-way trade in 2024 and supporting more than 470,000 U.S. workers in the domestic textile sector alone.   

“We also sincerely thank Rep. Richard Hudson (R-NC-09), Rep. David Rouzer (R-NC-07), and many members of the House Textile Caucus for their leadership and efforts in supporting the textile and apparel co-production chain between the U.S. and CAFTA-DR countries.

“These actions will help preserve significant export markets for domestic textile producers in the Western Hemisphere and enhance the vitality of the U.S. industry. The U.S. -Western Hemisphere supply chains stand as a bulwark to China and other Asian countries. We look forward to working with the Trump administration to further strengthen this vital region and express our strongest appreciation for this important announcement.”

###

NCTO is a Washington, DC-based trade association that represents domestic textile manufacturers.

• U.S. employment in the textile supply chain was 471,046 in 2024.
• The value of shipments for U.S. textiles and apparel was $63.9 billion in 2024.
• U.S. exports of fiber, textiles and apparel were $28 billion in 2024.
• Capital expenditures for textiles and apparel production totaled $2.98 billion in 2022, the last year for which data is available.

CONTACT:

Kristi Ellis

National Council of Textile Organizations

kellis@ncto.org| P: 202.281.9305