National Council of Textile Organizations
 

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National Council of Textile Organizations

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A national trade group meeting the needs of the fiber, yarn, fabric and textile supplier sector

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WITNESS STATEMENT OF

MR. ANDERSON WARLICK

PRESIDENT & CEO, PARKDALE MILLS

for

THE NATIONAL COUNCIL OF TEXTILE ORGANIZATIONS

 

SENATE COMMITTEE ON FINANCE

 

MARCH 8, 2007

 

Chairman Baucus, Senator Grassley, and distinguished members of the Committee, thank you for the opportunity to appear today and outline the U.S. textile industry’s perspective on the 2007 trade agenda. 

 

My name is Anderson Warlick.  I am President and CEO of Parkdale Mills, a privately held textile manufacturer headquartered in Gastonia, North Carolina.  We employ some 4,080 workers in facilities in North Carolina, South Carolina, Alabama, and Virginia.  Parkdale Mills is the largest cotton yarn spinner in the Western Hemisphere and our yarns are used in apparel, home furnishings, and industrial-end manufacturing.  Our U.S. mills process 15 million lbs of cotton a week and most of our yarns are exported abroad, mostly to Central America, Mexico and the Caribbean region.  Parkdale Mills has been a strong supporter of the NAFTA, CAFTA and Andean trade preference programs.  I am also a member of the board of directors of the National Council of Textile Organizations. 

 

In this testimony, I would like to touch on a number of issues, including the make-up of the U.S. textile industry, the recently-passed Haiti legislation and the need for a trade policy agenda that delivers benefits to manufacturers that produce in the United States and employ millions of workers here at home.

 

About this last point, I would like to make one initial observation.  The recent elections demonstrated clearly that most Americans believe that trade policy has been headed in the wrong direction and needs to be turned around.  As we debate what changes might be made, I implore you to keep your attention focused on rebalancing the playing field to make sure that American jobs stay here.  U.S. workers are the most productive, creative and highest-skilled workers in the world, but our trade policy has tilted the playing field against them.  Our goal should be to rebalance the field so that they can keep their jobs.  Parkdale’s workers would rather you help preserve their jobs rather than compensate them for lower paying jobs they must take once their jobs are gone.   

 

U.S. Textile Industry Background

 

First, I would like to debunk some commonly held beliefs about the U.S. textile industry.  I have often heard members of Congress and numerous retailers and importers refer to our industry as a dead or dying industry and one that is antiquated and not prepared to meet the challenges of manufacturing in the 21st Century.  In fact, these self-serving comments are not true. 

 

The U.S. textile sector continues to be one of the largest manufacturing employers in the United States.  The overall textile sector employed nearly one million workers in 2005.

 

Our industry is the third largest exporter of textile products in the world exporting more than $16 billion in 2005.  These exports went to more than 50 countries, with 20 countries buying more than $100 million a year. 

 

The U.S. textile sector is a very important component of our national defense and supplies more than 8,000 different textile products a year to the U.S. military.  The industry spends enormous resources on research and development each year to ensure that our military continues to be the most well-equipped and technologically advanced military in the world. 

 

From 1994 to 2004, the U.S. textile industry invested more than $33 billion in new plants and equipment and has increased productivity by 49 percent over the last ten years.  This investment has secured our second place ranking among all industrial sectors in productivity increases over the past ten years.

 

As you can see, the U.S. textile industry is an innovative, productive industry that can compete with anyone in the world.

 

Unfortunately, our industry, as well as much of manufacturing, has been hamstrung by a series of trade policy initiatives that have created a disincentive to invest in this country and to employ workers in this country.  For a snapshot of the difficulties that poorly thought out trade policy can cause to a U.S. manufacturer one need turn no further than the Haiti HOPE act passed by Congress just last December.

 

Haitian Hemispheric Opportunity through Partnership Encouragement Act

 

Before addressing the myriad of problems with the content of this legislation, I would like to touch upon the process by which this legislation was developed.  Let’s be clear, the HOPE Act is not a trade bill; it is a textile bill.  Ninety-nine percent of the contents of this legislation impact U.S. textile manufacturers alone.  Yet, the U.S. textile industry was never consulted, not even once, as Congress drafted this legislation.  There was neither a hearing on this proposal nor a committee markup that would have allowed key stakeholders and those who represent us the opportunity to provide feedback and input.

 

As the CEO of a large manufacturing company, I cannot fathom undertaking a wholesale restructuring or change within our company without consulting all the stakeholders involved.  So it is baffling to me how our elected officials could pass a major proposal, like the HOPE Act, without consulting those who would be most affected by it.  It is these types of antics that continue to make American workers skeptical of trade.  By putting the interests of Haitian workers above those of U.S. workers, Congress ensures that support for trade liberalization among U.S. workers and companies will continue to erode.

 

The irony in all of this is that the U.S. textile industry is supportive of a trade preference program for Haiti, just not this program.  Again, if all the stakeholders had been consulted and worked together on this initiative, I am confident we could have developed a win-win proposal – a program that would have greatly benefited Haiti, but not at the expense of U.S. workers and not at a loss of $200 million in U.S. exports to Haiti. 

 

Finally, the HOPE Act is not a reciprocal agreement – the benefits under this program are extended to Haiti without any new benefits for U.S. companies.  In fact, under the HOPE proposal, U.S. textile companies will lose market access, while new market access is created for China and Vietnam through the various loopholes and tariff preference levels that are established under this program.      

 

The U.S. textile industry is extremely concerned that under the HOPE Act U.S. mills could lose substantial business if the United States government and the Haitian government do not appropriately administer the customs regulations required under this new program.  Under the Caribbean Basin Initiative (CBI) and its successor program, the Caribbean Trade Partnership Act (CBTPA), Haiti has been an important export market for U.S. textile products – totaling nearly $200 million a year.  These programs have been relatively simple to enforce because of the requirement that U.S. yarns and fabrics are utilized in apparel receiving duty-free access to the U.S. market.  

 

Effective enforcement of the HOPE Act is a major concern for the U.S. textile industry.  This program will not be beneficial to Haiti or anyone else if it becomes a magnet for fraud as it has in other textile and apparel programs involving value-added rules.  Indeed, Customs reports that because of its relatively high tariffs, fraud occurs in textiles and apparel far more than any other category of goods. (A comprehensive list of Customs concerns is appended to the back of my statement.)

 

As of today, Haiti does not have an effective visa system or any domestic laws covering enforcement of the new HOPE program.  In addition, NCTO is aware of no legislation or regulations that Haiti has promulgated concerning access by U.S. Customs inspection teams and we are aware of no reporting systems that have been put in place regarding imports, exports or documents which could substantiate claims under the new value-added rules.  Yet it appears that the HOPE program will come into force later this month.   

 

I certainly hope that we have all learned something from this experience.  Trade is important and the U.S. textile industry, and NCTO specifically, are supportive of trade liberalization, but it has to be done the right way.  Understanding the benefits and costs of trade not only to the U.S. consumer, but also to the U.S. worker, requires careful and deliberative analysis and is not something that should be done under a veil of secrecy and without clear understanding of the impact on U.S. workers and companies. 

 

Perspectives on the 2007 Trade Agenda

 

In order to understand the U.S. textile industry’s current perspective on trade, we need to understand the historical context of textile trade.  As part of the Uruguay Round Agreement, the U.S. textile industry agreed to a ten-year phase-out of quotas on textile and apparel goods that began in 1994 and ended with the final phase-out in 2004.  During this ten-year period, the U.S. industry was told that new market access opportunities would be aggressively pursued to ensure we had a fair shot at the end of this transition.

 

At the time the quota phase-out agreement was made, China was not a member of the WTO and no one expected they would become a member in the foreseeable future.  Yet China did become a member in 2001. And despite the fact that China was a manufacturing powerhouse, especially in textiles and apparel, China was not subjected to a ten-year phase-out of quotas; rather, it was allowed preferential treatment over the rest of the WTO members and had its quotas phased-out in just three short years. 

 

What has this meant for the U.S. textile industry?  In textile and apparel products that have been completely removed from quota, China has attained a 65 percent market share in apparel categories removed from quota more than three years and a 46 percent market share in apparel categories removed from quota since January 1, 2005.  While China still has quotas on several sensitive categories as a result of the U.S.-China textile bilateral agreement that went into effect on January 1, 2006, these quotas will expire on January 1, 2008, and there is no mechanism to take its place.  Once these quotas expire, the U.S. textile industry will be completely defenseless against dumped or subsidized goods coming from China.

 

But it is not just China. Since 1994 when the industry was told that new market access opportunities would be aggressively pursued, the exact opposite has indeed happened.  During this time, one-way preferential trade programs and FTAs with loopholes for third-country fabrics have dominated the trade agenda in textiles and apparel, with very limited gains being made in new market opportunities for U.S. exports.  In 2000, it was the African Growth and Opportunity Act (AGOA), a one-way preference program that allowed yarns and fabrics from China to be sent to Africa, assembled into apparel, and exported to the U.S. duty-free.  Once again, China was the big winner and no real market access was established for U.S. exports. In 2005, the Egyptian Qualified Industrial Zones were implemented and then expanded in 2006.  Yet again, China won and U.S. industry lost. 

 

There is also the plethora of FTAs -- Bahrain, Chile, Jordan, Morocco, Oman, Singapore – where exceptions to the rule of origin for textiles and apparel were prevalent and once again diminished new market access opportunities for U.S. producers by providing huge loopholes for third-country fabrics.  And finally, the HOPE Act, which if not implemented and enforced correctly, will simply become a conduit for transshipped goods from China and the loss of $200 million in U.S. exports to Haiti.    

 

The obvious question is why does China win?  China wins because it can offer whatever price necessary to make the sale.  Chinese companies are not worried about profits or shareholder values or credit-worthiness – they simply must make the sale to keep their plants operating and keep their people employed.  They achieve this through a complex web of subsidies including currency manipulation, export tax rebates, non-performing loans, and subsidized transportation and utility rates to name a few.   Many, if not most of these, are illegal under U.S. trade law and WTO law.  Yet, there appears to be precious little interest in going after countries that do not live up to their WTO obligations. 

 

As an example, I find it stunning that more than five years after China joined the WTO, the United States government still does not have a list of subsidies that China uses to put American workers out of their jobs.  In fact, the only list that the U.S. government has is the very incomplete list that the Chinese government sent to the WTO last year, four years after it was required to do so under its accession agreement.

 

To my mind, this is the crux of the problem with trade policy today.  We have a de facto trade policy that allows foreign governments to subsidize their exports and throw U.S. workers out of their jobs while our own Congress and government essentially look the other way or conveniently provide aid and assistance to China, its businesses and government. 

 

While there are many examples of how government policy has tilted the playing field against U.S. workers, I would like to detail two which I think cost more American jobs than any other.

 

1)  Currency Manipulation and Value-Added Taxes

 

In February, the government reported that the U.S. trade deficit with China grew to a high of $232.5 million in 2006, up from $201.5 billion in 2005[1].  This is the largest U.S. deficit ever with a single country.  In the words of Professor Peter Morici a former economist at the International Trade Commission, “although Americans may be getting cheap t-shirts at Wal-Mart today, their children will be paying the Chinese interest forever.”[2] 

 

Why our government refuses to use access to the U.S. market as trade negotiating leverage to rein in the ballooning trade deficit with China defies logic.  Such inaction is simply a green light to China that they can play by their own rules without consequence.  Because of the Administration’s refusal to act, the time has come for Congress to take matters into its own hands and address the plight of U.S. manufacturing before it is too late. 

 

As a first step, Congress should quickly pass legislation to allow countervailing subsidies to be applied to non-market economies and to provide that currency misalignment is a countervailable subsidy.  It is estimated that China’s currency is undervalued by as much as 40 percent.  This undervaluation acts as an export subsidy for Chinese-made products and puts U.S. manufacturers at a disadvantage and ultimately leads to plant closures and job losses.  China cheats – that is a fact.  Until the U.S. government forces them to behave otherwise, they will continue to play by their own set of rules and the U.S. manufacturing base will continue to erode.     

 

Unfortunately, our trade imbalance will not be erased by simply addressing currency and other subsidies.  Another significant problem for U.S. manufacturers is the prevalence of value-added tax systems (VATs) that are employed by 137 countries, including every major industrial power except the United States.  These countries rebate VAT taxes on exported goods and levy VAT taxes on imported goods. 

 

What does this mean for U.S. manufacturers?  In real terms, U.S. producers were disadvantaged by an estimated $294 billion in 2005 as a result of foreign VAT taxes.  China alone accounted for $48 billion of this total.  Foreign countries with VAT systems are estimated to have rebated $201 billion in VAT taxes on exports to the United States while imposing an estimated $93 billion in VAT taxes on imports from the United States.

 

This is an important issue to keep in mind as Congress potentially weighs the benefits and costs of a Doha Round Agreement.  Even if the U.S. were successful in tearing down trade barriers and creating real market access opportunities for U.S. manufacturers as part of this agreement, the trading environment will still be stacked against us because of the effects of the foreign VAT systems on U.S. exports.    

 

If Congress would tackle these two issues alone – currency manipulation and foreign VAT systems -- I am convinced the U.S. would experience a rebirth in manufacturing and the restoration of millions of U.S. manufacturing jobs. 

 

Finally, I want to be clear that I am not China bashing.  China is simply doing what it needs to do to continue growing its economy and providing adequate employment for its citizens.  China is simply acting in its own national interest.  The time has come for the U.S. government to do the same.  It is time for the U.S. to stop utilizing trade policy for purely foreign policy and social objectives and to start looking out for the interests of U.S. workers and companies. 

 

2)  Free Trade Agreements

 

Parkdale Mills and the National Council of Textile Organizations fully support the pending FTAs with Colombia and Peru.  These agreements contain a strict yarn forward rule of origin, no loopholes for Asian products and strong customs enforcement and will help the U.S. textile industry and its workers compete in world markets.  Colombia and Peru represent important and growing export markets for U.S. textile products, totaling nearly $200 million a year.  These FTAs are essential if the Peru and Columbia markets are to continue to grow, and we urge Congress to quickly pass implementing legislation for these agreements.

 

At $16 billion a year in exports, the U.S. textile industry is the third largest exporter of textile products in the world.  These exports depend on trade agreements like the Colombia and Peru FTAs which ensure that FTA partners, not Asian exporters, are the true beneficiaries of these agreements.  In fact, the textile provisions of these agreements should be used as a template for future trade agreements which can garner wide industry support.   When trade agreements benefit U.S. textile workers and companies, the industry will back them enthusiastically.

 

In order for the Colombia and Peru FTAs to be effective, however, there must be no loss in benefits in the transition from the current trade preference program (the Andean Trade Promotion and Drug Eradication Act, or ATPDEA).  The ATPDEA is scheduled to expire at the end of June and we strongly urge Congress to extend these trade preference benefits until the new FTAs can take effect.   Congress must prevent the mistakes made during the CAFTA agreement when a staggered implementation caused substantial business to be lost to Asia because duty benefits for the region were suspended.

 

The Peru and Columbia FTAs are key components in making the Western Hemisphere a competitive alternative to Asia.  With 2.2 million textile and apparel workers in the NAFTA, CAFTA and Andean region, textile producers in the United States and apparel manufacturers in the larger region have integrated their production lines.  These FTAs will create the necessary predictability and stability that is needed to help ensure this region remains viable.

 

With respect to the current FTA negotiations with Korea, the industry is very concerned that an FTA with Korea will simply be a one-way street, with a massive